‘Denis Cotter has been polishing his approach to vegetarian cooking for a decade or more, all the while combining flavours and influences with a sure hand and undogmatic intelligence, so that the individual elements don’t stumble over one another in confusion, but instead shine clear with pointed spicing and beautifully judged flavours. To see for yourself, either go to Cork (which I strongly advise) or invest in The Café Paradiso Cookbook and try making them yourself.’
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